Yokohama HDR

New Grand Hotel, Yokohama

Took a day away to experiment with some HDR photography in Yokohama. I am still trying out a few techniques. Here are the first attempts at what might look more like art than photography.

Yokohama Aka Renga
Stormy Skies
Bubby's Yokohama, Sakuragicho Station
Yokohama New Grand Hotel. I liked the reflection of the trees in the window, but might have to visit again to get a better shot
Yokohama Ferris Wheel. Pity about the sky. I have to learn how to not make it go so grey
Yokohama Art, Minato Mirai

What is your favorite Yokohama scene?

For those who have been following along, I started a Facebook page recently for quick snapshots of my traveling photos with the iphone. You can find it at

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  • Marijn Rongen โ€“ Netherlands โ€“ Cancer survivor | autist | photography | webdevelopment

    I really like this type of photography, will try it myself sometime soon I hope! Especially the first and last photos are amazing, the way metallic surfaces work in HDR photos is spectacular.

    • shibuya246

      Thanks. I like the way the light plays off the different surfaces. Metal is cool as is brick. Watching the light catch on trees and grass is also quite cool.

  • locohama

    Utterly awesome pics Shibuya!! Really putting my town on the map!

    • shibuya246

      Glad you like them. I always enjoy a quick trip to Yokohama. Something about the town which is different.

  • lithiumangel

    Hi Hi ! Glad to see you exploring new and exciting pieces of photography ๐Ÿ™‚
    This is a very good first attempt! Better than mine ๐Ÿ™‚ Personally i think the grey in the skies is a bit odd.. but the scenery itself is grand. And funny enough; I almost went to Yokohama today myself too as the weather has been treating us quite well.
    But in the end I did what I always do on Sundays in Tokyo; go to Meiji jingu/Yoyogi Koen and Harajuku ๐Ÿ™‚ Such a sucker for the greasers and seeing people doing what they like best.

    Anyway. Two suggestions if I may?
    You are already using bracketing mode (3frames, 1 exposure stop between each) setting on the D700 for these right?
    (if not; it will make your life easy for these things) โ€“ second, best to do is set your camera on CH mode on the left dial.
    This will give you 5 frames a second, or 8, if you have the optional MB-D10 battery grip.
    Just hold the button down and it will have your 3 framed bracketed shot done in about 2/3rds of a second ๐Ÿ™‚
    Now , since each consecutive shot will technically be slower; you might want to bump your ISO up to 400 on a sunny day, hell even 800 (you wont see the noise/grain anyway on this) so that your next consequtive shots will be at top speed; giving you the 3 frames you need in half a second? This will minimize motion blur of moving people to an absolute minimum !

    No tripod required kids ๐Ÿ™‚

    Now if you haven โ€˜t looked into it already; try a polariser filter for these beatiful autumn shots.
    Circular polariser is the one youโ€™d wanna go with, make it a good brand like B&W otherwise you get a fake one.
    Polarisers simply remove non-metallic reflections; you can shoot trough water as if it were clear; you can shoot perfectly trough windows if they werent there (as the reflections are gone) โ€“ but also it will make your landscape shots look better as the highlights of the sun on the leaves and such are gone too ๐Ÿ™‚ Also it makes the blue sky more blue!

    Examples? Check out some of my pics from this week that used a polariser, all straight out of camera shots; no post processing aside from adding the watermark.

    Sorry for the long post, and if you already knew the above.
    But if not, hope these tips help!

    • shibuya246

      Very good tips. Thanks as always.
      I had the bracketing set for 3 shots and as normal have the CH mode set. I had the ISO set to auto and probably could have bumped it up more. What would you do for the F stop?

      I used photomatix for bringing the frames together, but didnt do any masking in photoshop. I saw a tutorial that said always go back and make sure the sky is blue. That must be an advanced step. Next time ๐Ÿ™‚

      I was thinking of looking into filters as well. Will visit Yodobashi Camera soon ๐Ÿ™‚

      Thanks for the examples.

      Not sure why the formatting doesnt turn out right. I might take a look at the code. Maybe there is a problem.

  • lithiumangel


    I have been meaning to ask but your blog sure doesnt like me formatting my posts properly with multiple โ€œEntersโ€ etc. to space things out. Any tips? Do i need to use a certain tag?

  • lithiumangel

    For the F stop I set something that gets โ€œmore things into focusโ€ so anything lower than F/5.6 is a no no ๐Ÿ™‚
    Depends on the scene, if half my frame is with a sky; then F/5.6 is good. But if there is allot of detail in the frame and less sky I go F/8 this gets my entire scene in tac-sharp focus. But since you are going down several F-stops .. you will lose your โ€œspeedโ€ โ€“ hence the โ€œbump up the ISOโ€ tip.

    You can do the ISO thing two ways. Either bump up auto-iso to something like: Minimum shutter speed: 1/200, maximum ISO 3200 (should provide no grain during the day for sure so no worries) this will ensure that all shots in your frame are 1/200th of a second at least. Or do it manually and check your viewfinder first if itโ€™s up in the 200 + area before bumping it up as required.

    Also if you are using one of the latest photoshop? There is a โ€œmerge to HDR proโ€ function in it (under file, automate I think)
    I like itโ€™s results better than Photomatix, but this is personal taste. (also seems to do itโ€™s job faster too)

    • shibuya246

      Thanks. I will take a look at Photoshop shortly. Iโ€™ll keep an eye on the shutter speed also.

  • kenguie

    The first pic is probably my fav! This is awesome, looks almost like painted scenes.

    You take great pics!

    • shibuya246

      Very nice of you to say so. Thanks ๐Ÿ™‚

  • Mei

    super like this !! actually all of your photos ๐Ÿ™‚