If you want HD video on a Nikon the D300S is a beautifull camera for both video & photography.
But, it does not have a full-frame sensor like the D700. I am having a difficult choice between D300S (for video) and D700.
I will probably get a D700 because I do alot of concert shooting for a Dutch music magazine so it will help me alot.
But ahh .. not an easy choice haha !

I fell into the trap of trying to shoot only at f1.4 just like you said. I need to take a look at the difference in results when stepping back up towards f2.8 etc. Ill also keep an eye on the Sigma and see whether it is ok. I did find it hard to focus but thought I was just not used to it.

Re: choice of the 60mm Macro. This was a mistake purchase. I should have chosen, I think it was the 105mm, but I didnt. Afterwards, I realized but toooooooooo late!

I am really happy with the D700. Wish it could shoot some video as well, but I am sure the next model will.

Hope to keep testing out the camera and lenses and look forward to hearing more from you as to getting better performance out of the equipment.

Much appreciate your feedback and guidance. Thanks

Tough I’m a bit puzzled by your 60mm Macro lens It’s really close to the 50/1.4 in terms of focal length, personally I think Macro lenses are better in the 90mm and up focal range so that you don’t have to squish your lens as close to your subject.
Again, this depends on what you wanna shoot macro on offcourse; a figure wouldn’t mind the close-ness, but an insect would

So your a bit confused on the various metering modes ? No worry, all you need are some simple examples to help you along.

Matrix mode : Use in everyday situations (9/10) Disects the “Scene” into various bits, gathers lighting and color information all-round to determine final exposure.

Spot-Metering mode: Measures the ABSOLUTE CENTER of your center focus point for light (so the metering is *alot* tighter than you imagine it is- be wary of this) therefor it is tricky for starters to use.
When to use this ? In scenes with alot of contrast. I.E somebody with alot of light behind him (the sun) a building with the sun behind it etc. To get correct exposure. If you shoot the aforementioned examples on Matrix; than you will get the Apple silhouette effect on the subject. This can also be helpfull in concerts; with some venues (annoyingly) having the lighting all focused towards the crowd from the back of the band/idol. Matrix will screw up and get you silhouette type shots. Use spot.

Center-Weighted mode: You will rarely use this. Use this in a scene with alot of the same color. (i.e the sea, a street white cause it’s covered in snow)

That should help you determine which metering mode to use. As you can see. It’s mostly matrix.

And here is the final tip that alot of people go wrong with when they buy a lens with a wide aperture such as F/2.8 or better.
Just that you *CAN* shoot at F/1.4 doesn’t mean you HAVE to shoot at F/1.

Most lenses do not reach their critical sharpness at their best apperture, they are usually too soft even on the focus point itself. (unless your talking about specialist lenses such as Leica *Cough* 1400+ euro for one focal length)
There are so called MTF charts you can consult to see how sharp a lens is, at which apperture.
Consult this: http://www.photozone.de/Reviews/nikon–nikkor-aps-c-lens-tests for example.
I shoot my 35 1.8 on 2.8 most of the times even tough I can go as low as 1.8.

With your D700, you have incredible ISO to noise ratio performance, you can crank it up to 3200 without your picture turning bad.
So don’t be afraid to up the apperture to say 2.8 (for more subject sharpness) but in return having to crank the ISO up as well.
I’m buying the D700 very soon just for this reason, and skipping the D300S which is great cause it has 2 AF systems (1 for pictures and 1 for video) Shooting video with a DSLR and high-grade lenses in HD resolution is VERY TEMPTING.

I was trying to also see what the difference lighting settings for spot, matrix and full would make as well. Cant work out whether I could direct the spot focus for lighting at a different point to the spot focus for picture?

I worked a lot with 35mm film cameras so its basically the same principle. Hope to be helpful ^^;

I saw a shot someone had taken of a mother lying on couch ill wrapped in a blanket with baby son in center of frame and dog directly in front of camera. The boy was so clear and the other objects just the right amount out of focus. Great work with 2 of the 3 subject matter unpredictable moving objects. I think they used a 35mm. Would love to produce similar results.

Today’s shots with these different lenses taught me a lot about my camera I didn’t know. Had to go back and read the manual to figure out how to change a few settings